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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.